by Fred McMillin
This Winery Is For The Birds
Audubon Cellars Brochure: Each of our varietal labels features one of John James Audubon's incredible watercolors from his great work, The Birds of America...The winery supports with substantial donations the Audubon Society, founded in 1905 to protect birds.
Richard Carey thought his winery was for the birds, too...but in a different way. He was losing money, so he sold it. The new secretary-treasurer was Dieter Tede, the new winemaker was Barry Grushkowitz. Soon, the new wharehouse winery in Berkeley, California, would be named Audubon Cellars (1984).
Today, Dieter is president, and Barry is still the winemaker...drawing his grapes from some of the best vineyards in Sonoma County (Sangiacomo), Amador County (Picnic Hill), Napa Valley (Graeser on Spring Mountain), etc. The Carneros Chardonnay is a bargain $12, so let's start there.
Not so long ago Aussie critic James Halliday was visiting California and was impressed by the urban winemakers without vineyards. "Among them are some singularly talented makers, producing many fine wines." As you would guess, his list includes none other than Barry Grushkowitz.
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