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Copyright © 2018
Forkmedia LLC


by Fred McMillin
for April 26, 2000




Ogden Nash...

    I'm mad about mustard —
    Even on custard.

The name of a hot dog cart in San Francisco's financial district... "Mustard's Last Stand"

President Michael Houlihan and Winemaker Jennifer Wall

President Michael Houlihan and Winemaker Jennifer Wall

The Rest of the Story

My affection for mustard dates from my first trip to the old ball park, and was not diminished by the breathtaking sight of the waving yellow mustard blossoms around Dijon, Burgundy.

Even today, at least once a week my wife makes my favorite sandwich for lunch, toasted whole wheat bread with smoked turkey breast, lettuce, tomato and a double layer of Dijon Mustard. But what to drink with it??

Lunch at Home—The Criteria

The bottle must be under $10.

Between bites I'm reading aloud to my bride of 43 years excerpts from my review copy of Clive Coates newly-updated The Wines of France, $50. Consequently, the wine must be easy sipping, not a powerhouse that demands attention.

16 Tasters Can't Be Wrong

The Best Buy selected by the 16 tasters at the latest class proved to be just right...$8...very gulpable without requiring analysis. Here it is.

Barefoot Bubbly California Champagne
President Barefoot Cellars—Michael Houlihan, (pictured)
Winemaker—Jennifer Wall, (pictured)
History—Jennifer made her first bottles of Barefoot Bubbly just two years ago. It was reviewed in the October 15, 1998 WineDay, which stated, "Crisp apple flavors rather than the yeasty jolt of more expensive bottles. RECOMMENDED in its price range."
The Year 2000 Bottling—It scored a bit higher than two years ago. If you drink fizz costing less than $10, you should buy this Barefoot.
Recognition—The Tasters Guild International Wine Competition gave our choice a Gold Medal.
Contact—Office of Deborah Johnson, (707) 524-8000, FAX (707) 524-8001
Price—$8 range

Postscript—Barefoot Beginnings

As I recall, S.F. journalists Herb Caen and Davis Bynum were discussing the latter's initial jug wine efforts and came up with the name Barefoot Bynum. When sales reached 20,000 cases annually, Davis decided to put his shoes on and concentrate on a pricier line. He sold Barefoot to Michael Houlihan.

Note: See the WineDay Annex for the Coates book review, "A Book for All Readers."

Stewart, Tabori & Chang's Ogden Food Nash,
Research— Diane Bulzomi

About the Writer

Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.


This page created April 2000