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Copyright © 2018
by Fred McMillin
Winery of the Week
It's the Price, Stupid
1989, Stuller and Martin's Through the Grapevine...
Norm Roby's Connoisseurs' Handbook of California Wine...
The Rest of the Story
So Fetzer let their prices do the talking. Let's see how it worked out
Value of the Operation
It sounds pretty valuable to me. It did to Brown-Forman Corp., too. (Jack Daniels, Korbel, etc.) So, in 1992 they bought Fetzer for a reported $100 million, The Fetzer family retained most of the vineyards, and have returned to their origins, selling grapes (to the Fetzer winery, of course.)
There are three categories, the low-priced FIGHTERS, the medium-priced BARREL SELLECT, and the RESERVES.
The Fighters—Partly under the Fetzer label, and partly under the Bel Arbor (name of the road leading to the winery) label, sales are near three million cases annually. The star is Sundial Chardonnay. Critic Robert Parker Jr. calls it "a consistent winner in the under-$l0 Chardonnay sweepstakes...well-made...exuberant." My panel also always gives high marks to the Gewürztraminer.
Barrel Select—The noted authority James Laube writes, "this second tier has maintained high quality at affordable prices." The Cabernet Sauvignon is the leader. Total Select production is only about 5% of Fighter volume.
Reserves—Cab, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot...total only 10,000 cases. They have been pleasant suprises in my tastings.
Let's add a fourth group...organic. Sales are already in the 100,000 case range. The label is Bonterra. The sulfites are LOW and the flavor intensity is high.
Contact—Director of Public Relations Sara Moore Cummings. She's helped me chase down winery facts for years, and I'm sure you'll find her very helpful, too. Ph. (415) 444-7426, FAX (415) 444-7483.
Bernie and Kathleen's children (11) have always played a major role in the family winery. When it was decided to build a little winery in 1968, sons John and Jim converted an old barn into the first Fetzer plant. When at age 61, Barney died unexpectedly, ten of the children joined their mother to keep the show on the road. Equally responsible for the Fetzer phenom are Paul Dolan and Dennis Martin. Barney hired Paul as head winemaker in 1977. Paul hired Dennis as his assistant in 1985. Since then they've turned out nearly half a billion bottles...but we'll do the Paul and Dennis story later.
This page created April 2000