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Copyright © 2017
by Fred McMillin
for January 31, 2000
When Nonno Ran the Show
Gastronomic developments in 1924...
Wheaties is introduced, and very shortly will
be advertised as "the breakfast of champions."
Life Saver fruit drops are introduced, though
it will be another six years before a machine
is perfected so they have a hole in the center.
In Tijuana, Mexico, hotel Chef Alex Cardini
creates a salad for unexpected guests from
leftovers...Roumaine lettuce, dry bread, Parmesan
cheese, etc... And names it after the owner of the
hotel, his brother Caesar. Caesar salad is born.
Russia repeals its 10-year prohibition against
drinking alcoholic beverages.
However Prohibition is still in effect in the U.S.A. as
Italian-born, 30-year-old Gaspare Indelicato, (pictured),
reaches California and starts planting 160 acres
of wine vines south of Stockton. Seventy years
later the Delicato Winery will be the ninth largest
in the U.S.A., selling two million cases a year
and owning the largest vineyard in the world.
As the years pass and two more generations of
Indelicatos take over the operation, he will become
The Rest of the Story
Today's wine is a tribute to Nonno, made by
the ten Indelicatos that all still live near
that first vineyard-winery. Originally, it was
only a vineyard selling grapes to fellow Italians
in the East for legal home winemaking. Then,
with Repeal in 1933, a winery was added.
For family events, Nonno would create a blend
of his favorite red wines.
In remembrance of that, the current family have
created a similar blend, appropriately named...
Nonno's Traditional, 1998
Price—Well under $10
Comments—This is a wonderful wine for beginners
who find most reds too severe to enjoy. Nonno
made his blend with a touch of sugar and no
harshness, which describes this one, too.
My panel found it smooth and friendly...not too
heavy for White Zinfandel fans seeking a tad more oomph.
Food Affinities—Crab-cheese sandwich, cheeseburger,
chicken with rich sauce, veal.
Contact—Laurel Purcell, (510) 654-5400, FX (510) 654-5402
I found an old review of an Indelicato wine
(the name was changed to Delicato in 1974) that
said it was "a good country wine." I'll add that
this one is mighty good for we city slickers, too.
|| About the
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history
for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine
courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College.
In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred
with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded
to American wine writers.
This page created January 2000