by Fred McMillin
We Got Apricot
"Our Concento d'Oro Late Harvest Chardonnay has lovely...apricot aromas and flavors, etc. Great with lemon tea cookies."
...Kent Rosenblum, Rosenblum Cellars
The Rest of the Story
We found another marvelous companion for Kent's d'Oro...an apricot-glazed Savarin (photo), which my wife taught as far back as 1966! It's origins go back MUCH farther than that...
1736—King Stanislas I of Poland abdicates his crown and moves to Nancy, France. An enthusiastic cook, he douses a yeast cake with rum syrup and names it after his favorite fictional figure, Ali Baba in A THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS. Baba au rum was born.
c.1800—Chef Sthorer introduces the dish in Paris with great commercial success.
c.1840—Parisian pastry chef Julien changes the shape using a ring mold, changes the composition of the syrup (which long remains a secret), and names the modified baba after the great gourmand Brillat-Savarin. Later, it is called simply SAVARIN. (Recipe in Larousse Gastronomique)
1964—James Beard teaches my wife to coat the rum-syrup-laden porous yeasty cake with a glistening apricot glaze (photo). Which brings us to our elegant dessert wine, with its subtle hints of apricot.
The Wine of the Day (from my cellar)
1997 Concento d'Oro, Sonoma County
Our dessert might have been known as Brillat, not Savarin. The great gourmet's last name was simply Brillat...UNTIL his great aunt said she would make him her sole heir if he would add her surname to his. Her name was Mademoiselle SAVARIN.
More articles by
Welcome to WineDay, the electronic Gourmet Guide's daily update. Monday through Thursday, WineDay presents a wine profile. Then on Fridays we present the Winery of the Week to take you through the weekend.
Copyright © 1999—the electronic Gourmet Guide, Inc. All rights reserved.