HOME      CONTACT      KATE'S GLOBAL KITCHEN      COOKBOOK PROFILES      GLOBAL DESTINATIONS      I LOVE DESSERTS      SHOPPING      SEARCH


Cookbook

 

What Sous Vide Can Achieve, at a Glance

by Thomas Keller

 

Most foods can be cooked sous vide with great success, but some foods should not be cooked sous vide. The color of green vegetables—broccoli, asparagus, peas, etc.—is harmed by sous vide. Grains and cereals (rice and pasta, for example) do not benefit in any appreciable way from sous vide. But sous vide can be applied to the majority of food. Here's a rundown of some of sous vide's most important assets.

For Tender Cuts of Meat
  • Sous vide allows us to achieve the exact internal temperature—for example, the perfect medium in a lamb loin, or the perfect medium-rare in a squab breast every time.
  • With sous vide, we can get the same temperature throughout the entire cut, not just at the center.
For Tough Cuts of Meat
  • Half the meats we cook are tough-from variety meats, such as heart, gizzard and tongue, to shank and shoulder cuts. All of these, without exception, benefit from sous vide techniques.
  • We can cook tough cuts of meat at temperatures that are low enough that they don't dry out the meat (as braising does) but that are still hot enough to dissolve, over time, the connective tissue that makes the meat tough.
  • We can cook medium-rare short ribs. We can cook a pot roast to medium-rare, yet cook it long enough so that it's meltingly tender and pink.
  • Often we confit the tough cuts—for instance, duck legs, pork bellies and gizzards. In a traditional confit, the meat is submerged in a large quantity of rendered fat and cooked gently for hours, then cooled in that fat. With sous vide, we can achieve exactly the same results with considerably less fat; moreover, we're not using valuable oven space that, when we're confiting traditionally, must be kept at a very low temperature for a long time.
  • Tough cuts can be brought to different consistencies as desired. For example, a pork belly might be cooked until it is falling-apart tender or just until it is tender but not falling apart, still firm enough to be sliced.
For Fish
  • Fish, perhaps more than any protein, has such a small window of doneness that it requires the most finesse on the part of the cook. Sous vide makes cooking fish easier and more consistent, especially in a busy kitchen.
  • Because not high-heat flavors (the complex flavors from roasting or sauteing) will develop, fish cooked sous vide has a very pure flavor.
  • Some fish, such as salmon, cooked sous vide at a low temperature develop a voluptuous texture that is impossible to achieve any other way.
  • Fish we once poached in a court bouillon can now be cooked in a small amount of liquid with a small amount of aromatic vegetables, for a bigger and better flavor.
For Seafood
  • Seafood such as lobster, octopus and squid can easily become tough when using high heat. The low heat of sous vide allows us to cook them through and keep them extraordinarily tender.
For Hard Root Vegetables
  • All root vegetables can be cooked sous vide with excellent results in terms of texture, flavor and color. For example, potatoes cook through without their exterior overcooking, turnips cook through elegantly enhanced with a flavorful fat, and carrots remain vivid orange.
For Other Vegetables
  • Some softer vegetables are excellent cooked sous vide—onion and fennel, for instance, become tender without overcooking or falling apart. All nongreen vegetables, from com and radishes to endive, can be efficiently and elegantly flavored in the sous vide bag.
For Fruits
  • Fruits are perfectly and consistently cooked in the same way tender vegetables are. In addition, fruits, which are especially susceptible to rapid oxidation and discoloration, remain bright when cooked sous vide rather than becoming dull and brown.
Noncooking Techniques
  • Marinating meats sous vide is neat and efficient.
  • Compressing food sous vide can result in dramatic textures and brighter colors.
  • Gently compressing food can maintain a desired shape, such as a roulade.
General Kitchen Issues
  • Sous vide allows us to cook food before service and chill it or hold it so that it can be finished a la minute, at the last minute, with no compromise whatsoever of quality.
  • Stove and oven space, valuable assets in busy, crowded kitchens, are freed up when one or more circulators are being used.
  • Sous vide requires less "people power"—the cooks' time is not spent tending the pot, so they are free to concentrate on other work.
  • Consistency: everything can be cooked to its optimal temperature and texture every time.
  • Circulators are portable, allowing us to cook anywhere.
  • Cooler space is efficiently used with food stored sous vide. When we seal food sous vide, we are in effect creating the perfect-size container, rather than storing, for example, 750 milliliters of custard base in a 1-liter container.
  • Sealing food sous vide prevents damage from oxidation.
  • Food sealed and cooked sous vide, then cooled and stored, has a dramatically increased shelf life. This is especially so with custard bases, which are in effect pasteurized by the cooking process and so keep for more than a week if well chilled.
  • Sous vide allows us to pick up, or serve, the food efficiently.
 
  • from:
    Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide
  • by Thomas Keller, Jonathan Benno, Corey Lee and Sebastien Rouxel
  • with Susie Heller and Michael Ruhlman
  • Artisan 2008
  • Hardcover; $75.00; 304 pages; 200 Color Photographs
  • ISBN-10: 1579653510
  • ISBN-13: 987-1-57965-351-4
  • Information provided by the publisher.

Buy Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide

 

Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide

 

Cookbook Profile Archive

 
 

This page created January 2009


The Global Gourmet
The Global Gourmet®
Main Page

 

Easter
Spring Recipes for
Easter & Passover

   Clip to Evernote

Bookmark and Share

 

Twitter: @KateHeyhoe

 
Search this site:

Advanced Search
Recent Searches


Departments

Kate's Global Kitchen
Kate's Books
Cookbook Profiles
Global Destinations
Holiday & Party Recipes
I Love Desserts
On Wine
Shopping

Caffeine and You Caffeine and You
cooking kids Cooking with Kids
new green basics New Green Basics

Archives
Conversions, Charts
   & Substitutions
Search

About the
Global Gourmet®
   Contact Info
   Advertising
   Feedback
   Privacy Statement

Recent Cookbooks

Cooking Italian
175 Home Recipes
4-Hour Chef
Bakery Cookbook
Barefoot Contessa
Bouchon Bakery
Burma: Rivers of Flavor
Cake Mix Doctor
Comfort Food
Craft of Coffee
Crazy Sexy Kitchen
Daily Cookie
Fifty Shades Chicken
French Slow Cooker
Frontera - Rick Bayless
Gluten-Free Quick & Easy
Jerusalem: A Cookbook
Kitchen Science
Lidia's Favorite Recipes
Make-Ahead and Freeze
Modern Milkshakes
Modernist Cuisine
Mystic Cookbook
Paleo Slow Cooking
Picky Palate
Pop Bakery
Practical Paleo
Quick Family Cookbook
Saltie
Sensational Cookies
Smitten Kitchen
Southern Living Recipes
Sweet Life in Paris
Trader Joe's Vegetarian
True Food
Whole Larder

More Cookbooks

 

Kitchen & Home
Markdowns

 
.

Copyright © 1994-2013,
Forkmedia LLC

 

 


cat toysCatnip Toys
 

Kitchen & Home
Markdowns

 
,